Glimpses of Japan

 I had a chance to visit a cafe/bar called Kerun in Sakata, Yamagata. The bar is the birthplace of a cocktail called "Yukiguni." I was amazed by the flavor of the cocktail. Its tender, sweet, yet cold icy feeling reminded me of Tohoku's snowy scenery.  Yukiguni's recipe is very simple. Its ingredients are vodka, Cointreau, and lime juice, with a green cherry and sugar for the rim.  This simplicity is the reason why it became one of Japan's most famous standard cocktails. You can order Yukiguni at most bars not only in Japan but also anywhere in the world.  Keiichi Iyama, who owned the cafe/bar Kerun, created Yukiguni in 1959. He worked at the bar as a bartender until 2020, which was just a year before he passed away at 95 years old.  I really would have loved it if I could see him in person. Kerun is now run by Keiichi's son, preserving the same atmosphere and flavor that has not changed since.  Kerun https://goo.gl/maps/y3ic4NwPkYhWHLJUA A documentary film...

I got a chance to visit Haguro-san, one of the three sacred peaks of the Dewa Sanzan. Dewa Sanzan is the collective name for the sacred tree mountains in Yamagata Prefecture; Haguro-san, Gassan, and Yudono-san.  The Dewa Sanzan has been a training ground for followers of Haguro Shugendo, an ancient Japanese religion. It preserves its sacredness with wild mountains and special local cuisines, and rituals and festivals continue today. Visiting three mountains is said to be "a journey to reincarnate." I desperately wanted to visit all three of them at once. Unfortunately, I could only visit Haguro-san this time.  Before visiting Haguro-san, I stayed a night at Shukubo, a pilgrim lodge. It is said the proper way to visit the Dewa Sanzan is to have Shojin Ryori, traditional Buddhist cuisine. By having Shojin Ryori and staying at a shukubo, you purify yourself before entering the sacred area.  Mt. Haguro is the easiest mountain to visit among the Dewa Sanzan. After walking up a...

Yamadera, its official name is Risshakuji Temple, is a temple located in Yamagata prefecture. Yamadera literally means “mountain temple.” As the name describes, Yamadera stands along the steep mountain, and there are 1,015 steps towards the main building “Okunoin.” It is pretty much work to go up such number of stairs in a mountain. However, it turned out to be the best temple I have ever visited. About Yamadera Yamadera was founded in AD860 (it’s surprising, over a thousand years ago!) by the priest Jikaku Daishi. Yamadera is also known for a visit by the famous poet Matsuo Basho. He composed one of his most famous poems here in Yamadera. Basho’s original work is buried here under the stone. Once you get off the Yamadera Station, you will see a map. The map shows the way to the mountain entrance, and the path is pretty clear, so I think there is no worry about getting lost. It’s about 5 minutes walk from the station. The map of Yamadera and around the area in front of the statio...

Ginzan Onsen is a beautiful onsen district in Yamagata Prefecture. Kosankaku, a ryokan in Ginzan onsen, has a great view and delicious food, and nice private onsen. Brief description of Kosankaku Kosankaku is located at near the foot bath. Kosankaku is one of the oldest ryokans in Ginzan Onsen.   It has been operated from Edo period, which means more than 100 years. The exterior is decorated with paintings of Japanese traditional items. Items and interior of Kosankaku have nostalgic atmosphere. The big table in the lobby. Old telephone. Surprisingly, this sign says that it is still in use! The stairs going to the upper floor Kosankaku’s room was cozy tatami room The room was traditional tatami room. I could look down the lovely street of Ginzan Onsen from the window. Cozy tatami room of Kosankaku. Pretty room key! Dinner and breakfast of Kosankaku Dinner was traditional kaiseki course cuisine. Kosankaku’s Kaiseki dinner Sashimi dish The plate of side dish, te...

Yamagata Prefecture is in the Tohoku region, the northern part of Japan. This means they have rich resources to make great food; pure, natural, delicious water, and ingredients produced in the neighboring farms. When I traveled to Yamagata, I got to encounter one of the best wagashi, Japanese confectionery shop, I have ever had. The name of the shop is “Koshikakean (腰掛庵)” The long-established wagashi shop situated in a 120 years old building Koshikakean is located in a small residential neighborhood and might be difficult to find at first the first visit. The shop is situated in a pretty old house style building. The building is said to be more than 120 years old. Look for this orange sign saying “Koshikakean (こしかけ庵)”  Koshikakean is popular not only with tourists but also among locals as well. There is always a queue after opening, so better to arrive early to purchase their mochi. Signature Product: Warabi Mochi Warabi Mochi is a jelly-like mochi with Kinako and Kuro Mitsu...